Les Halles - High end Bistro fare in Midtown

Stars: *****
Price: $$$$$
Weirdness factor: 0

Les Halles
411 Park Ave South, New York, New York, United States


French bistro-brasserie Les Halles, once a New York landmark, had somewhat fallen out of favor, due in large part to the recent surge in popularity of Italian cuisine. However, probably because of head chef Anthony Bourdain's hit show on the the Travel Channel, the restaurant has enjoyed renewed renown.

We went early on a Sunday evening. At first it was relatively empty, and I thought our reservations had been unnecessary; however, as the night wore on the place filled up considerably, proving that the bistro hasn't quite lost its prestige just yet.

The cozy brown and gold colors and dimmed lighting made for a really enjoyable and intimate setting, quite evocative of dining establishments in France (despite the fact that the tables are so close to one another I could've joined in on my neighbors' conversations). Also, you can see into the kitchen, something I love in a restaurant. The service was impeccable (perhaps because I was scribbling in my notebook the entire time?). The waiter seemed to appear out of nowhere to refill our wine glasses and fold our napkins into scallops, and all three (4? 5?) of our attendants stopped by regularly to check on us.

Skip the French Onion soup. It's one of my favorite dishes and I always order it, but this was probably the worst I've ever eaten. Equally unimpressive was the pork confit with cornichon... it was fatty, salty, and overpriced.
However, the disappointing appetizers were no indication of the rest of the dishes.

The main courses are hearty and decently sized, with distinct flavors, simple ingredients, and a surprisingly authentic Frenchness. My duck, truffle, and potato hachi was delicious; the hangar steak was perfectly cooked and the accompanying shallot reduction was one of the best sauces I've ever had.
The choco-banana tart was quite tasty, and if you're a chocoholic, you can't do much better than the decadently rich house souffle -- oh, and by the way, both of these desserts were great, but their greatness was heightened by a snifter of vsop cognac...very highly recommended... :)

The wine menu is extensive and exceptional(notably offering a $400 bottle of Bordeaux), and so is the selection of aperitifs, cognacs, and especially eaux-de-vie (rarely seen in American restaurants, but run-of-the-mill in France).

Unfortunately, Les Halles is pretty pricey, starting at about $10 for apps and entrees in excess of $40, and remember, that's not including wine, coffee, dessert, or tip. But the good news here is that at least you get what you pay for, something quite refreshing in a town where a bottle of beer can cost upwards of $10.

High prices and crappy onion soup aside, if you're in the mood for a delicious dinner in an intimate and charming atmosphere, you can't do much better than Les Halles.

Beast - Beastly good deals in Park Slope

Stars: *****
Price: $$$
Weirdness factor: .5

Beast
638 Bergen Street, Brooklyn, New York, United States

We were craving a drink and a nosh on St. Patrick's Day. So, from an offhand referral through a friend (and Park Slope local), we decided to try Beast. We headed there originally because of the catchy name, but the outside decor lured us in, the staff was super-friendly, and we never looked back.

A cozy, eccentric little watering hole-slash-eatery-slash-tapas bar, Beast is kitchy yet tasteful; deliciously nouveau-Brooklyn. I loved it.

The entire "kitchen" (tiny and probably smaller than the one you have at home) is set smack in the middle of the dining room; you can see exactly what's going on and exactly who's cooking, at all times. It was quite unlike anything I'd ever seen before, and it really added to the communal, homey, anti-yuppie feel of the place. I imagine on extremely slow nights it's kind of like being at your friend's house during a laid-back dinner party. And I don't know about you, but that's an experience I'd like to have again and again.

The brews on tap are another of Beast's points of interest: Grimbergen, Weihenstephan, Krusovice, and "Peak Organic" Pale ale aren't beers you see at your everyday bar.

Refreshingly moderate in price, the limited menu consists of smaller, cheaper appetizers and considerably larger appetizers (big enough to be entrees anywhere else). Furthermore, we didn't see a single item over $20, which is "kind of a big deal" for NYC, even in Brooklyn.

The "Big B's" burger was thick, moist and delicious. The exorbitant $2 fee for an addition of cheese is only there so that the management can discourage you from "detracting from the way the burger was meant to be"... oh and FYI, they're right, it's wonderful just the way it is, so don't ask for cheese!
The garlicky bleu cheese potato salad was equally tasty.
My warm grilled flatbread (thick, charred, and soft) with black bean hummus and chipotle aioli was delicious; at $5 I can't think of a better New York deal.

The whole environment at Beast is charming; there's an archaic video game in one corner while silent movies play on tv in the other; the management even throws a basketball game in for good measure (or political correctness, take your pick). Gargoyles, fairies, even a jackalope head adorn the walls and the music is "ambient"... a good mix of loungy background(and some classic) tracks which can only be described as I describe the entirety of Beast itself; that is to say, well... pretty cool.

It's a shame we didn't try their holiday-inspired corned beef and cabbage, as I'm sure it would've been great. Oh well, next time... and there WILL be a next time! Time Out NY voted Beast "Best New Restaurant" in Brooklyn, and for good reason... check it out if you happen to swing that way!