Stars: **** 1/2
Price: $$$
Weirdness factor: 1
Il Porticciolo
92 Via R. Birolli, Manarola, Italy
We decided to try the Trattoria Il Porticciolo from a referral out of one of our guidebooks, mainly because it advertised 6-euro pasta dishes, and we were pretty strapped for cash.
While their dishes averaged more towards 8 or 9 euro than 6, this little trattoria stole my heart. It is hands-down my favorite eatery in the Cinque Terre.
Il Porticciolo is pretty much in direct competition with the larger, more expensive, ocean-front restaurant Marina Piccola, so they're cheaper. The first night we went there, the service was ok, we had a bottle of local white wine. My friend had a frutti di mare, seafood pasta. The shrimp still had their shells and heads, and the little squid still had their beaks. If you're not used to seeing seafood prepared like this, it could be a little disconcerting... but I loved it. The more the fish looks how it did when it was caught, the less it's been handled, so theoretically it's fresher. It certainly looked and tasted fresh and delicious, beaks and all.
I had the pappardelle pescespada (wide, flat pasta with swordfish) in a mildly spicy, lightly creamy tomato sauce. I'm not kidding when I say this was probably the best (or at least top 3) pasta dishes I've had in Italy. It was absolutely delicious.
We were staying in Manarola, so the following night we decided, rather than search for a new restaurant in another of the 5 towns, to return to Il Porticciolo because we had enjoyed it so much.
They remembered us. This time we got slightly better service, and bread with oil and spices as a complimentary appetizer, something we didn't get the first time around. A few nights later, one of our last in the area, we decided to eat there one last time... why not?
This time, they DEFINITELY remembered us. Not only did we get bread and oil, we also got sardines, and a complimentary limoncello (or some kind of digestivo) after dinner. I guess most tourists don't come in 3 times within the space of a week, but you just don't see hospitality like that very often, and it didn't go unnoticed.
If you're in Manarola, go to Il Porticciolo. Forget that, actually. If you're in the Cinque Terre at all, go to Il Porticciolo. It's just a hole in the wall, but it delivers more than its loftier, pricier, picturesque-ier competitors ever could. Two thumbs up.
PS. By the way, did I tell you I had the same dish all 3 times? And I'm a crazy foodie, the kind of person who's morally against that! The pappardelle was that good. I'd have it again right now.
Showing posts with label italy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label italy. Show all posts
Saturday, August 29, 2009
Pizza Design - Unbelievable Kebab in Residential Rome
Stars: *****
Price: $$
Weirdness factor: 4 - it's a little weird
Pizza Design
Circonvallazione Cornelia 17-17a - , Rome, Italy
If you've been to Rome lately, you'll know that the Romans like their Kebab (it's actually Schwarma, but the Italians call it Kebab, so it's Kebab from here on out). And if you've been to Pizza Design, it's likely you'll never look at Kebab in the same way again.
I cannot begin to describe my love for Pizza Design. It is the most amazing food ever and it's not even expensive. Ok, ok. Calm down, stop salivating, and give the people a review.
First off, it's a small-ish, modern looking, clean little restaurant (I believe it's run by Syrians) right outside of the Cornelia metro stop. Like all Roman pizzerias, they sell their pizzas by weight, so you can go in and get 100 grams of this, 100 grams of that, etc, and pay a flat price.
Their pizza is always amazing, different flavors every day, depending on what is freshest. They have tricolore, seafood, tomato/basil/fresh mozzarella...all different kinds, always looking fresh, green, and delicious.
However, we're really here to talk about the kebabs. Although the name says Pizza, the kebabs are where it's at! The meat they use is not the usual overseasoned gyro ground-up lamb paste that is formed into a log shape, no way. The lamb at Pizza Design is actual visible layers of real solid lamb meat, interspersed with thin layers of red bell pepper, so that it keeps the meat moist while imparting a delicious flavor. At the top of the roasting spit are different kinds of fruit- the heat releases the essences of the fruit and it therefore drips down and flavors the meat. SO delicious.
The wraps are more like soft flatbread (think Gordita) than pita or tortilla, and they warm them up for you on a giant metal drum thing.
But here's the best part - there is a smorgasbord of things you can choose to make-your-own-kebab, which, like the pizza, is a different selection everyday! In every other kebab joint I've been to, even the good ones, they have a selection of lettuce, tomato, onion. MAYBE they have some kind of slaw or relish. That's it. But! At Pizza Design, there are all different kinds of lettuces, tomato, and onion. They have tomato and cucumber salad, roasted eggplant or zucchini, falafel, babaghanoush, spicy pickled peppers, hummus, loads of different things.
Part of the selection is "food", presented in pans and set up like a cafeteria; mediterranean specialties, curried chicken and rice, etc...but they're right alongside the fixin's for the wraps- so basically whatever they have displayed, you can put in your sandwich.
They top it off with a creamy white sauce and a spicy red harissa sauce (I always got extra of that). Then, get a beer or a fanta from behind the cassa, and you're good to go.
I went in there so many times they knew me by name, I'd say at least once... maybe twice... a week! They are all super friendly and go out of their way to make you a great sandwich!
The whole thing will cost you about 10 euro, drink included.
I absolutely cannot praise Pizza Design enough. It's one of the top 5 places I've ever eaten in my life. You have never had a kebab until you've had Pizza Design. This is probably my highest recommended restaurant in Rome (!), and for my money, truly worth travelling for.
Price: $$
Weirdness factor: 4 - it's a little weird
Pizza Design
Circonvallazione Cornelia 17-17a - , Rome, Italy
If you've been to Rome lately, you'll know that the Romans like their Kebab (it's actually Schwarma, but the Italians call it Kebab, so it's Kebab from here on out). And if you've been to Pizza Design, it's likely you'll never look at Kebab in the same way again.
I cannot begin to describe my love for Pizza Design. It is the most amazing food ever and it's not even expensive. Ok, ok. Calm down, stop salivating, and give the people a review.
First off, it's a small-ish, modern looking, clean little restaurant (I believe it's run by Syrians) right outside of the Cornelia metro stop. Like all Roman pizzerias, they sell their pizzas by weight, so you can go in and get 100 grams of this, 100 grams of that, etc, and pay a flat price.
Their pizza is always amazing, different flavors every day, depending on what is freshest. They have tricolore, seafood, tomato/basil/fresh mozzarella...all different kinds, always looking fresh, green, and delicious.
However, we're really here to talk about the kebabs. Although the name says Pizza, the kebabs are where it's at! The meat they use is not the usual overseasoned gyro ground-up lamb paste that is formed into a log shape, no way. The lamb at Pizza Design is actual visible layers of real solid lamb meat, interspersed with thin layers of red bell pepper, so that it keeps the meat moist while imparting a delicious flavor. At the top of the roasting spit are different kinds of fruit- the heat releases the essences of the fruit and it therefore drips down and flavors the meat. SO delicious.
The wraps are more like soft flatbread (think Gordita) than pita or tortilla, and they warm them up for you on a giant metal drum thing.
But here's the best part - there is a smorgasbord of things you can choose to make-your-own-kebab, which, like the pizza, is a different selection everyday! In every other kebab joint I've been to, even the good ones, they have a selection of lettuce, tomato, onion. MAYBE they have some kind of slaw or relish. That's it. But! At Pizza Design, there are all different kinds of lettuces, tomato, and onion. They have tomato and cucumber salad, roasted eggplant or zucchini, falafel, babaghanoush, spicy pickled peppers, hummus, loads of different things.
Part of the selection is "food", presented in pans and set up like a cafeteria; mediterranean specialties, curried chicken and rice, etc...but they're right alongside the fixin's for the wraps- so basically whatever they have displayed, you can put in your sandwich.
They top it off with a creamy white sauce and a spicy red harissa sauce (I always got extra of that). Then, get a beer or a fanta from behind the cassa, and you're good to go.
I went in there so many times they knew me by name, I'd say at least once... maybe twice... a week! They are all super friendly and go out of their way to make you a great sandwich!
The whole thing will cost you about 10 euro, drink included.
I absolutely cannot praise Pizza Design enough. It's one of the top 5 places I've ever eaten in my life. You have never had a kebab until you've had Pizza Design. This is probably my highest recommended restaurant in Rome (!), and for my money, truly worth travelling for.
Thursday, August 27, 2009
"Caccia all'oca selvatica": An Italian wild goose chase
I gotta share this story... I’ve been meaning to blog about it for months... but... well, you know how it is... anyway, enjoy the Italian nonsense. More disorganized, unprofessional peasant activity after the jump.
Cerveteri was one of the more interesting experiences I’ve had.
I was going to be in Rome for a week with nothing to do. Since I’ve spent a LOT of time there previously, I decided to try some "excursions", some off-the-beaten-path Roman ventures that tourists with a more limited time window wouldn’t usually take. In my (Italian) Lonely Planet, the ancient Etruscan necropolis of Cerveteri was recommended, boasting a "30-45" minute train ride from the main train station in Rome to see a unique UNESCO site. No further information was provided in the guide.
So, ok, sure, I figure, I’ll just hop on the train and go see the ruins and come back. Simple, right?
Not quite. This trip was one of the wildest goose chases I’ve ever been on, Italian or otherwise. I suppose I should have seen the red flag when I asked not one, but 2 ticket salesmen which train to take to Cerveteri...
After the (as advertised) 45 minute train ride, which was decidedly tourist-free, I get off, like I’m supposed to, at the Cerveteri/Ladispoli station. I look around. I’m in the most residential area you could possibly imagine, practically deserted, and no sign of the necropolis. When I took the train to the Roman beach, the surroundings were similar, but all you had to do was walk a few blocks and you start seeing signs for the ocean. Hoping this is the case here, I cross the street and walk around a few blocks, hoping to see some signs pointing me in the right direction, but there are only apartment buildings. Discouraged, I go back to the train station.
In urban Rome, if you see a taxi stand anywhere, let alone by the train station, if you wait long enough, one will come. There was a taxi stand in front. I waited. And I waited. For about... oh, an hour. Nothing. So I go inside, and ask not 1, not 2, but 3 people how to get to this alleged "Piazza Aldo Moro", the location of the Cerveteri tourist office mentioned in my book. No luck there.
So I go to the payphone. There are 3. Only one works. I dial the operator. I ask for a taxi to pick me up at Ladispoli, but he replies that it will take 30 minutes. I wait. I wait about 55, then go back outside, walk up to the taxi stand, to which is pasted a piece of paper with several cabbies’ names, and numbers next to them. I guess I have to call them personally.
The third cabbie I call picks up. I tell him my location and he arrives within 15 minutes.
And, ok, this is so ridiculous, his girlfriend is in the front seat. So I’m paying to ride with the cabbie and his girlfriend. Needless to say it was awkward. He does, however, eventually get me to "la necropoli", which BY THE WAY is like 15 minutes away, BY CAR, from the train station! How the hell is any tourist supposed to know that! Lonely Planet, or whatever guidebook, you really, really need to inform people that the Ladispoli train station is a no man’s land and is nowhere near the ruins!
When we get there, a long, one-lane driveway leads down to the site. Another car is passing on the other side, and all 3 of us are worried that we’re going to have a collision because the road’s so narrow. When the two drivers come face-to-face, they both roll down their windows. The other guy looked kinda mad, and I guess we were expecting some kind of discussion or altercation or something. But, when no words were spoken after a couple of seconds, my driver just said "salve" to the other guy, and drove on. Now, to non-Italian speakers, that’s basically like saying, "what’s up, dude?". I guess you had to be there, and I can’t really explain it, but both the girlfriend and I completely cracked up laughing, it was hilarious. I think it was especially hilarious to me because I had been so stressed out up until that point and I needed a release. I think the driver was tickled that he had made us laugh, too. Anyway, we arrive at the ruins, and he tells me that when I need a ride back to the station, to call him 30 minutes beforehand. I say ok and thanks, then proceed to enter the site, walk around, take pictures, etc. These are old, OLD buildings built right into the rocky hills. They've been there for over 1000 years. In that sense, the place was interesting. However, it didn’t blow my mind.
Now I’m done. I wanna go home. I ask the woman at the counter if there is a phone so I can call a taxi, but she recommends I take the shuttle bus into town, where, if I show my necropolis ticket stub, I can get into the cerveteri museum for half price... and can then catch a regular bus to the station. Because the taxis are expensive, I do this. In true Italian fashion, even though I have no ticket, the shuttle bus driver lets me on anyway. Oh and incidentally, the ride into town is another 10 minutes.
When I get off the shuttle bus, I find myself in teeny tiny downtown somewhere. I ask someone where the museum is, and (surprisingly) I find it pretty easily. Arright. I see what they have on display; all the descriptions and everything is in Italian only, there are no English descriptions of the artifacts. If you don't speak/read Italian, I recommend you don't waste your time or money on the museum. But the items were pretty, and fascinatingly ancient, anyway.
Now I’m ready to take that bus back to the station, so I can go home.
Oh. Did I forget to mention that in Rome, most businesses are closed between the hours of 12-4, including tobacconists, which are the ONLY PLACES THAT SELL BUS TICKETS?? Yeah, didn’t really occur to me either. So now it’s 3pm, I’m standing at a bus station with no ticket and no way of getting one, and walking back to the station is out of the question. I’m utterly screwed.
And lo and behold, serendipity intervenes.
Some creepy, kind of gross, middle aged Italian begins hitting on me, and we strike up a conversation. He tries and tries to convince me to let him give me a ride back to my hotel, but I refuse. After about 15 minutes of schmoozing, however, I think to myself... well... if worst comes to worst I could always open the passenger door and duck and roll. He’s kind of fat. I could outrun him. So I tell him sure, he can drive me back to the train station.
Now, before you judge me, you gotta understand that I had no other options. I was an American girl, alone, stranded in the middle of nowhere. And I had no ticket. You know what happens to people with no ticket? They get thrown out of windows.
I couldn’t have that. So I let him drive me to the station, and you know what? There were no problems. I guess I’m good at pacifying crazies. We had a quick coffee, I gave him some false information, I got on the train back to Rome and I was happy to leave Cerveteri behind forever.
My ultimate opinion for visiting Cerveteri is as follows:
Although the site itself is historical, there is virtually no in-depth information provided, and the experience is largely just walking around by yourself amongst some stones, with no context in which to place what you’re seeing.
I would say, only go here if you have a car. There is a bus that goes all the way from downtown Rome to Ladispoli and back, which, if I had known about it, I probably would have taken. Just buy your bus passes in advance! Otherwise, even if you’re in a group, the place is extremely difficult to get to even if you speak the language, and (as we’ve seen) taxis are practically impossible to find!
All I have to say is thank goodness I speak Italian and I have some element of stick-to-it-ive-ness... otherwise the whole thing would truly have been a hopeless bust, and I would have had no other option but to turn right around and take the train back home.
PS, I never saw hide nor hair of Piazza Aldo Moro.
Cerveteri was one of the more interesting experiences I’ve had.
I was going to be in Rome for a week with nothing to do. Since I’ve spent a LOT of time there previously, I decided to try some "excursions", some off-the-beaten-path Roman ventures that tourists with a more limited time window wouldn’t usually take. In my (Italian) Lonely Planet, the ancient Etruscan necropolis of Cerveteri was recommended, boasting a "30-45" minute train ride from the main train station in Rome to see a unique UNESCO site. No further information was provided in the guide.
So, ok, sure, I figure, I’ll just hop on the train and go see the ruins and come back. Simple, right?
Not quite. This trip was one of the wildest goose chases I’ve ever been on, Italian or otherwise. I suppose I should have seen the red flag when I asked not one, but 2 ticket salesmen which train to take to Cerveteri...
After the (as advertised) 45 minute train ride, which was decidedly tourist-free, I get off, like I’m supposed to, at the Cerveteri/Ladispoli station. I look around. I’m in the most residential area you could possibly imagine, practically deserted, and no sign of the necropolis. When I took the train to the Roman beach, the surroundings were similar, but all you had to do was walk a few blocks and you start seeing signs for the ocean. Hoping this is the case here, I cross the street and walk around a few blocks, hoping to see some signs pointing me in the right direction, but there are only apartment buildings. Discouraged, I go back to the train station.
In urban Rome, if you see a taxi stand anywhere, let alone by the train station, if you wait long enough, one will come. There was a taxi stand in front. I waited. And I waited. For about... oh, an hour. Nothing. So I go inside, and ask not 1, not 2, but 3 people how to get to this alleged "Piazza Aldo Moro", the location of the Cerveteri tourist office mentioned in my book. No luck there.
So I go to the payphone. There are 3. Only one works. I dial the operator. I ask for a taxi to pick me up at Ladispoli, but he replies that it will take 30 minutes. I wait. I wait about 55, then go back outside, walk up to the taxi stand, to which is pasted a piece of paper with several cabbies’ names, and numbers next to them. I guess I have to call them personally.
The third cabbie I call picks up. I tell him my location and he arrives within 15 minutes.
And, ok, this is so ridiculous, his girlfriend is in the front seat. So I’m paying to ride with the cabbie and his girlfriend. Needless to say it was awkward. He does, however, eventually get me to "la necropoli", which BY THE WAY is like 15 minutes away, BY CAR, from the train station! How the hell is any tourist supposed to know that! Lonely Planet, or whatever guidebook, you really, really need to inform people that the Ladispoli train station is a no man’s land and is nowhere near the ruins!
When we get there, a long, one-lane driveway leads down to the site. Another car is passing on the other side, and all 3 of us are worried that we’re going to have a collision because the road’s so narrow. When the two drivers come face-to-face, they both roll down their windows. The other guy looked kinda mad, and I guess we were expecting some kind of discussion or altercation or something. But, when no words were spoken after a couple of seconds, my driver just said "salve" to the other guy, and drove on. Now, to non-Italian speakers, that’s basically like saying, "what’s up, dude?". I guess you had to be there, and I can’t really explain it, but both the girlfriend and I completely cracked up laughing, it was hilarious. I think it was especially hilarious to me because I had been so stressed out up until that point and I needed a release. I think the driver was tickled that he had made us laugh, too. Anyway, we arrive at the ruins, and he tells me that when I need a ride back to the station, to call him 30 minutes beforehand. I say ok and thanks, then proceed to enter the site, walk around, take pictures, etc. These are old, OLD buildings built right into the rocky hills. They've been there for over 1000 years. In that sense, the place was interesting. However, it didn’t blow my mind.
Now I’m done. I wanna go home. I ask the woman at the counter if there is a phone so I can call a taxi, but she recommends I take the shuttle bus into town, where, if I show my necropolis ticket stub, I can get into the cerveteri museum for half price... and can then catch a regular bus to the station. Because the taxis are expensive, I do this. In true Italian fashion, even though I have no ticket, the shuttle bus driver lets me on anyway. Oh and incidentally, the ride into town is another 10 minutes.
When I get off the shuttle bus, I find myself in teeny tiny downtown somewhere. I ask someone where the museum is, and (surprisingly) I find it pretty easily. Arright. I see what they have on display; all the descriptions and everything is in Italian only, there are no English descriptions of the artifacts. If you don't speak/read Italian, I recommend you don't waste your time or money on the museum. But the items were pretty, and fascinatingly ancient, anyway.
Now I’m ready to take that bus back to the station, so I can go home.
Oh. Did I forget to mention that in Rome, most businesses are closed between the hours of 12-4, including tobacconists, which are the ONLY PLACES THAT SELL BUS TICKETS?? Yeah, didn’t really occur to me either. So now it’s 3pm, I’m standing at a bus station with no ticket and no way of getting one, and walking back to the station is out of the question. I’m utterly screwed.
And lo and behold, serendipity intervenes.
Some creepy, kind of gross, middle aged Italian begins hitting on me, and we strike up a conversation. He tries and tries to convince me to let him give me a ride back to my hotel, but I refuse. After about 15 minutes of schmoozing, however, I think to myself... well... if worst comes to worst I could always open the passenger door and duck and roll. He’s kind of fat. I could outrun him. So I tell him sure, he can drive me back to the train station.
Now, before you judge me, you gotta understand that I had no other options. I was an American girl, alone, stranded in the middle of nowhere. And I had no ticket. You know what happens to people with no ticket? They get thrown out of windows.
I couldn’t have that. So I let him drive me to the station, and you know what? There were no problems. I guess I’m good at pacifying crazies. We had a quick coffee, I gave him some false information, I got on the train back to Rome and I was happy to leave Cerveteri behind forever.
My ultimate opinion for visiting Cerveteri is as follows:
Although the site itself is historical, there is virtually no in-depth information provided, and the experience is largely just walking around by yourself amongst some stones, with no context in which to place what you’re seeing.
I would say, only go here if you have a car. There is a bus that goes all the way from downtown Rome to Ladispoli and back, which, if I had known about it, I probably would have taken. Just buy your bus passes in advance! Otherwise, even if you’re in a group, the place is extremely difficult to get to even if you speak the language, and (as we’ve seen) taxis are practically impossible to find!
All I have to say is thank goodness I speak Italian and I have some element of stick-to-it-ive-ness... otherwise the whole thing would truly have been a hopeless bust, and I would have had no other option but to turn right around and take the train back home.
PS, I never saw hide nor hair of Piazza Aldo Moro.
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